How to Enjoy the Coast to Coast Walk – Some Suggestions

The following are some tips that might help you plan and prepare for the C2C.  Being well prepared will go a long way toward a happy and successful walk across England!

NB: If you just want to read about our trip and have no intention of doing the walk yourself, just go straight to the bottom ("Day 0") and work your way up, day by day.

These C2C suggestions are written from the perspective of four Australians in their 50s and 60s with a modest level of fitness.  We experienced great weather and we enjoyed long days as it was just after the summer solstice.  You will need to make your own adjustments as appropriate for your age, preferences, fitness, budget, country of residence and the time of year.  It being England (and especially the Lake District), you must also allow for the likelihood of some poor weather at some stage or other.  A few unlucky sods get rain, wind and cold for the entire trip.

If you have any further questions you can do so as a comment and include your email address.  I will email you an answer or publish it here if it’s of general interest (but without your name and email address of course).

1.       Planning

When to go?

Clearly it makes sense to go in summer – its generally warmer but that’s no guarantee it will be drier. The long days in June and July are an advantage, especially if you find you are out on a really long day (we got in at 7:45 one evening).  It would be no fun stumbling in to your destination village in the dark and people frequently get lost and have to back track or cover extra ground so don’t bank on doing just the official mileage from one village to the next.

We originally aimed for May in the hope of avoiding the masses but it was booked out (we were lucky ... we were later told it rained in the Lake District throughout May this year).  As it turns out May is as popular as any month and anyway we did not feel crowded on the walk.  There were just enough walkers to keep us company and have a chat at times but mostly it was just us.

If you want to try a shoulder season my hunch is that April is better than October, if only for the slightly longer days and the feeling of spring in the air.  Generally people don’t do the walk between November and March but there’s nothing stopping you if you’re game, experienced and well prepared.  However be aware that some of the C2C operators and B&Bs may cease trading over that period.  It would be wise to seek further advice before attempting an off-season trek.

Should I use a tour operator or can I book it myself?

If you are coming from overseas and have sufficient funds then it is far easier to put all the arrangements in the hands of a tour operator.  The advantages are many:

• They know all the accommodation establishments along the way and will usually find you excellent lodgings.  If you do it yourself, it’s pot luck.
• They do all the bookings for you.  This is not just a convenient service. It saves you a lot of difficult planning.  Imagine if you have 14 out of your 15 nights booked but simply can’t find a place to stay on a critical leg somewhere in the middle.  You may have to cancel them all and start again on some other date, with no guarantee it will work any better.
• It is not too expensive.  We found ourselves in some fairly up-market lodgings with retail rates well over £100 per night.  No doubt the tour operators get a better rate than a walk-up customer and some of this saving gets passed on to the client.  (The rest they are welcome to keep if they do a good job!)
• A good tour operator knows the route well. This means they can make realistic adjustments if you can’t stay in your preferred village.

If you live in England you may have some cause to book it yourself but most of the Brits we met were doing it through an operator. 

You can plan the C2C “free” if you are prepared to carry your camping equipment and pay the camping fees (where applicable) or chance your luck on finding B&Bs with vacancies (a bit risky in the peak periods).

Who should I use?

After some online investigation, talking to friends who had done the walk and making one or two direct enquiries, we opted for Coast to Coast Packhorse and we couldn’t fault them.  However there appear to be several other reputable companies offering similar services at similar rates (e.g. Mac Adventures, Contours, Sherpa, Mickledore).  I can’t recall hearing any horror stories about any of them so I suggest you do your own research and pick one you like. You want one that will do your accommodation bookings, provide maps and guidebooks and transport your luggage from village to village.  I found Packhorse to be very understanding with international currency transactions too.

 The Packhorse bus at Robin Hood's Bay

How many days should I allow?

Ahh, that depends!  Among other things it depends on budget, the time you have to spare, what you want to get out of the walk and how fit you are.

We allowed 16 days of walking (it really turned out to be 17, see below for details) plus an extra couple of “rest days” and we found this suited us very well.  However most walkers doing the whole trip in one go take about 14-16 days in total as far as we could tell.  For many this may have been because of budget and time restrictions (14 days is a neat two weeks away from work if you live in England).

We would recommend about 16 days plus 1 or 2 rest days for the following reasons:

• We had more time to really look around us and get to know the countryside.  We could stop and talk to people along the way and look at local antiquities, museums and attractions
• We stayed in one or two out-of-the-way places where not so many walkers stay
• If at all in doubt about your fitness you will be able to walk slightly within your daily limits without accumulating fatigue or aggravating pre-existing ailments
• Rest days allow your body to recover from minor ills and injuries (e.g. blisters, minor sprains, etc)
• We didn’t feel the need to be out of the door at 8am (we usually got away at 9-ish, except where we knew we had a longer day ahead), so we never felt rushed or under pressure
• If you are doing the walk when the daylight hours are much shorter it may be wise to add a day or two to your itinerary so you don’t have any really long days (30km +)
• Rest days also allow you to catch up on housekeeping - postcards/blogs, washing, repairs to equipment, etc
• Rest days offer you a change of pace and scenery that may be mentally stimulating (not that we ever felt “stale” on the walk!)
• Rest days allow you to undertake side expeditions (e.g. an excursion to some of the other parts of the Lake District) or to see friends or relatives if they are not far from the route.

See below for suggestions for specific sections of the itinerary.

As a general rule if you are reasonably fit you should be able to do the walk in 14-15 days without too much difficulty.  Those who wish to do it in 11-12 days need to be quite fit and determined as they will be averaging 25km days with several days over 30km and no recovery days.  This includes some days of climbing and descending over 1000m on rocky mountain tracks.

Specific suggestions for the itinerary:

Depending on your available time and budget these may not all be possible but each is worth considering in its own right:

• Get to St Bees a day ahead.  We arrived from nearby Whitehaven at about 11am.  On the good advice of the Abbey Farmhouse B&B owner we walked around St Bees Head then back to St Bees.  This was about a 15km walk which eased us into the routine without taxing us too much.  More importantly it took about 8km off the walk to Ennerdale Bridge which would otherwise have been about 23km.
• Rest Day in the Lake District. It hardly needs justification to suggest a stay in the most beautiful part of England!  However you may find you need a day off if your knees are feeling the strain.  There are plenty of villages to visit for the day (eg Keswick from Borrowdale) or you may wish to do a more leisurely walk around one of the many lakes.
• Take a Tour - Dry Stone Walls? If Dry Stone Walls is not too dry a topic for you, then Rob Willan of Orton is a very interesting and well-read chap who conducts day tours.  See the blog entry for “Shap to Orton” for further information.  It would mean having a rest day in or near the quiet village of Orton but that may be quite attractive after the energy expended in the Lake District.  We stayed at Scar Side Farm which was very hospitable and well worth a second night.  No doubt there are many different day or half-day tours along the route that you could arrange in advance, depending on your particular interests.

 

Rob Willan - dry stone walling at Scar Side Farm

• Rest Day in Richmond. Richmond is the largest town on the route and has a lot to offer (Georgian Theatre, castle, abbey, military history, museum, shopping, other entertainments, Lewis Carroll history, etc).  Kirkby Stephen is another option for a rest day in a town, but is a little smaller and did not appear to have as much to offer (but perhaps we are not doing it justice!)
• Communications at Clay Bank Top. Urra or Great Broughton may be offered as your Clay Bank Top accommodation.  Of necessity these villages are slightly off the route because there is nowhere to stay up on the North York Moors.  The operators of the B&Bs and hotels are quite happy to come and pick you up. This is fine but you need to find a way to contact your accommodation when you arrive at the B1527 having descended from the moor.  Mobile phone is no guarantee in these parts as the signal on most services is pretty poor.  We got no signal at all. This is not so much a problem if you are going to Urra as it is only 1km away, but it’s a 4km winding road down into Great Broughton with poor driver visibility and no verge for walkers.  This is not appealing after a long day’s walk!  A pre-arranged pick-up time would be the best option but it ties you to a deadline for the day.  Failing that, hitching a ride may be an option.
• Shorter Last Day into Robin Hood’s Bay. If all has gone well on your walk you will be feeling a sense of elation and perhaps sadness as you approach Robin Hoods Bay.  You need time to savour this.  Besides, the North Yorkshire coast is a delightful place to walk.  We had a fairly easy 20km walk on our final day even if it was by good luck more than good management as we were assigned a night at Intake Farm near Littlebeck (and very nice it was too).   Some walkers have to do over 30km if walking from Glaisdale or thereabouts.  This means it’s a hard slog to Robin Hood’s Bay and it may leave little time for celebrations at the end.
• Overnight in Robin Hood’s Bay. As above, this is a nice luxury to have but not essential.  Some walkers aim to meet the 4pm Packhorse Bus out of Robin Hood’s Bay or one of the regular public bus services.  This puts the final day of walking under even greater pressure when you really want to be enjoying it at a leisurely pace.  One walker we met had to leave at 5:30am from Glaisdale to get to RHB in time for the bus.  It’s understandable but certainly wouldn’t be our preference.

2.       Preparation

What reading should I do?

You can just arrive at St Bees and start walking, so reading ahead is optional. However you are likely to have a much greater appreciation of the walk and be better prepared for it if you read at least the recommended guidebook (Henry Stedman: Coast to Coast Path, Trailblazer publications).  For history and character, the original Alfred Wainwright book is also a good read.  After that you might like to explore some of the links and literature according to your fancy (e.g. walking in the Lake District, steam trains at Grosmont, military history in Richmond and Catterick, ancient Roman structures, James Heriot’s many books on Yorkshire, etc). 

In preparation for navigation I found it helpful to study the supplied Harvey maps and trace the route on Google Earth although I have to say it looks a lot bleaker on Google Earth than it does when you’re actually on the ground! 

Another recommended source is the BBC DVD series with Julia Bradbury “Wainwright Walks Coast to Coast”. This is a good sampler of what you’ll see and do. In Australia the ABC Shops should stock them.

What training do I need to do?

If you’re travelling east to west you may have an opportunity to walk into fitness before you reach the more arduous parts of the trek.  However if you’re travelling west to east as most walkers do then you’ll be into the hilly part of the Lake District by Day 2 so some hill training is strongly advised.

We climbed Mt Ainslie in Canberra several times a week for a couple of months before leaving.  It’s about 260m of climbing and represents about a quarter of the climbing you’ll be doing on the harder days.  Don’t underestimate how much descending takes out of you either, so getting your muscles and joints used to this sort of effort is strongly advised. You should be doing this sort of thing at least twice a week for a couple of months before you start. 

Some longer days on flatter terrain are worthwhile just to test how you go in your boots and other gear.  You don’t get blisters climbing Mt Ainslie but you can easily get them on a 20km undulating walk if your gear is not quite right.  The longer walks should also help build up your endurance.

All of this depends on how aggressive your itinerary is.  If you want to do the walk in 13 days you will need to put in more training to ensure your body is ready for several successive days of 25km or more.

While doing your training, it's a good opportunity to practise your compass work and map reading skills.

What do I need to pack?

See the “Equipment and Clothing” section below

How much money do I need?

Once you have equipped yourselves and bought your tickets to St Bees (or wherever you are arriving) there are two main cost components:

• The booked accommodation and baggage transfer (includes breakfasts)
• Daily expenses along the way 

The booked accommodation and transfers will depend on your itinerary.  Naturally the longer you take to do the trek the more it will cost.  Assuming you can book as a couple (double or twin accommodation) it should cost you around £50-55 per person per night. This didn’t seem to vary much between operators as far as we could see.  Some operators include supply of the Stedman guidebook and Harvey 1:40,000 maps in their base price, while others charge for them separately but it makes little difference to the overall cost as they are only a small component.

Daily expenses we found were fairly consistently around £20-25 a day per person, based on a pub or B&B dinner (say £12), a couple of drinks (say £6) and a packed lunch (say £5).  We found with a large breakfast we often didn’t need any more than a piece of fruit and a muesli bar for lunch.  So you could save a few quid there and if you don’t fancy a pint at the end of the day you could bring it down to about £15 a day.  However you will need extra cash on some days for things like washing, medical supplies, postcards, etc.

All of the above is based on our experiences over the summer of 2011.  You will need to allow for minor increases with inflation from year to year.

It is important to plan on bringing sufficient cash with you because cash dispensing machines/ATMs are only available in the bigger towns and many establishments don’t like taking credit card.  Cash is still king in these parts.

3. Equipment and Clothing

Footwear, clothing and outdoor shops are hard to find on the Coast to Coast route so you should bring everything you will need from home.   

Boots

As you’ll be walking nearly half a million steps, your boots are the most important piece of kit. Some have walked the coast to coast in sneakers or elastic-sided boots and got away with it, but you shouldn’t push your luck on gear as vital as this. Severe blisters, a sprained ankle or boots that fall apart may force an early end to your expedition. 

• They should be well worn in – say a minimum of three months regular use. Make sure they are a comfortable fit.  Try them on a full day walk at least three months before you leave in case you need to get a new pair (which will also have to be broken in). 
• They should be reasonably waterproof as you will almost certainly be walking in rain and or boggy ground at some stage.  Walking with wet feet is not only unpleasant but is more likely to lead to blisters (which must be avoided).  Consider applying a waterproofing spray on your boots before you leave.
• They should have a firm and thick sole as you will be spending a lot of time walking over rocky ground. 
• They should have a good tread for traction in both wet and dry conditions.
• Boots that are very heavy may exacerbate fatigue on a long day’s walk but if you choose a lighter pair they may not have all the other features you need. It’s often a trade off.
• If they are older boots check for signs of excessive wear, especially the stitching and glue.

If undecided which pair of boots to use you could consider taking two pairs.  I did this.  I had my favourite old boots which had served me well in Australia and New Zealand but they were not very waterproof.  I took a second pair which was not as comfortable but they were much stronger and more water-resistant and they had a much better tread.  I alternated between the two pairs depending on the weather and terrain. When we were going up and down fells in dry weather I used the older, lighter boots.  When we were walking in damper conditions I used the new ones.  Alternating also provided some relief for potential points of wear which could lead to blisters.  Another benefit is that it’s a handy form of insurance in case one pair of boots gets very wet or damaged.  You just need to choose your boots in the morning and consign the other pair to your luggage (you won’t want to carry them in your day pack).  Even if you intend to take only one pair it is worth having some sort of outdoor footwear as an emergency backup. Don't forget to pack some spare laces.

Socks

Do not take cotton socks as they absorb moisture and are likely to lead to blisters.  There are some excellent comfortable synthetic walking socks on the market.  Not only are they less likely to lead to blisters but they are lighter and can be easily hand-washed.  They dry much faster than cotton.

It is advisable to have 2-3 pair of thin synthetic or merino inner socks.  Inner socks protect your foot from chafing and can help prevent blisters.  I had a few minor problems with blisters in the first week but none at all once I started wearing the synthetic liners inside my main walking socks.

Walking Pants

I’d recommend light synthetic walking pants and shorts.  Or you could take the type that zip off at the knee and convert to shorts if you like that style.  After the first day I wore shorts all the way but we had unusually good weather.  I carried long thermal pants in my day pack as insurance but I needed to use them only once, when it turned cold for a while on St Sunday Crag. Do not use cotton walking pants or jeans.  You will be miserable in them.

Shirts

Don’t bother with anything cotton – either tee-shirts or walking shirts. Although I had mostly synthetic gear I did have a favourite cotton shirt that I wore on a day that was forecast to be warm and dry. As it happened I sweated quite a bit on the uphill section and when we sat down for lunch there was a fresh breeze.  The moisture from the sweat combined with the wind was quite chilling.  I quickly switched to a backup thermal that I had in my day pack and didn’t wear cotton again for the whole trek.

Some days will be warm enough to wear just a thermal shirt or other light synthetic but you need to be prepared for very cold, wet and windy conditions especially in the Lake District and the North York Moors, as these conditions can arise suddenly even in summer.  When the weather turns cold it is critical to maintain your core body temperature. The best approach is to have multiple layers of synthetic/thermal clothing with a warm polar fleece style outer garment and a rain jacket if it’s wet or very windy.

Sweater / Polar Fleece

Always carry a good quality warm polar fleece in your day pack, even if it looks like fine weather. 

Headgear

I carried three different types of headgear and used them all.  I had a baseball style cap which was handy for keeping the sun out of my eyes and off my face.  I also took a beanie which I wore a few times when the wind got quite cold.  I also took a ski-style headband which I needed once or twice (it can double as a muffler for your neck when it gets very cold).

Waterproofs

Carry a waterproof jacket at all times.  Goretex or equivalent fabrics are best as they breathe and allow your body moisture to escape.

I took waterproof overpants but this was one of the few items I didn’t use and I’m not convinced they are worth the trouble.  Lightweight walking pants will dry quickly once you reach your destination.

Gaiters

You are likely to need full length gaiters at some stage, particularly going over Nine Standards Rigg between Kirkby Stephen and Keld. We didn’t carry any but we were lucky there had been a spell of dry weather.  Don’t count on that! 

Gloves

Thin water resistant gloves may be useful if it gets very cold and wet.  Again synthetic is good.

Walking poles

Poles are not essential but if you struggle on hills or have dodgy knees I would strongly recommend them.  They can be particularly useful for reducing impact and maintaining balance going down the steep slopes.  I’ve been told that walking up and down hills with two poles reduces the impact and workload on your knees by 25% (and one pole reduces it by 12.5%). 

Casual Wear

You will of course need casual wear in your luggage so you can get changed into something dry and comfortable when you arrive at your accommodation.

Water

You will need to carry enough water for the day. At least two litres is recommended especially if you are in remote areas like the Lake District fells.   However if you are able to hydrate like a camel before you set out you might get away with slightly less.  If in doubt, err on the side of caution. 

First Aid Kit

See Health and Fitness below.

Maps and Guidebooks

The Harvey maps (1:40,000) are generally adequate although I do like more detail.  If you get the OS series maps (1:25,000 I think) you will end up buying a lot of them because they don’t neatly cover the Coast to Coast walk.  I was able to download 1:25,000 maps of the three National Parks onto my iPad which was pretty convenient (it only weighs about 650gm).

The Henry Stedman guidebook was our main reference and is strongly recommended.  It was fairly accurate and contains outline maps of every section of the walk.

"Would it help if we turned the map the other way round?"

Compass / GPS

We didn’t really use the compass but it is wise to take one (and know how to walk a bearing) in case you find yourself in mist or if you get lost along the way.  Some walkers we met admitted to getting lost on a regular basis, and that was in fine weather!  A GPS unit is an option.  The iPad was handy for me because it has a GPS app.  Nevertheless it is wise to take analogue instruments in case your battery runs out or you drop your electronic device into a river!

Torch

Although you are unlikely to be walking in the dark you could find yourself unexpectedly delayed (eg due to injury, bad weather or getting lost). It’s always worth taking a torch, especially if you are walking in spring or autumn when the days are shorter.  I certainly wouldn’t like to be stumbling into the village in the dark!

Whistle
A whistle and a torch are handy items to have if people are searching for you.  Let's hope it doesn't get to that but a whistle is a small and lightweight item so it's easy to carry one with you.

Mobile Phone

Mobile phones are – in theory, at least – incredibly handy (eg for ringing ahead if you are late, or to get help if you are in distress).  Unfortunately the coverage on the walk is frequently poor to non-existent.  Even in many of the villages there is little or no signal.  Occasionally on a remote hilltop we would get a signal but you shouldn’t count on being able to make or receive calls at any stage.  Despite this, I would still recommend taking one as they don’t weigh much, and if you have a choice, get whichever carrier has the best coverage in remote areas.  

Camera Cards

Don't forget to take spare camera memory cards for all your photos.  It's so frustrating and tedious going through your photos working out which ones to delete so you can take some more.  Work out how many cards you'll need and take 1 or 2 more than that.  It could be several days before you get near a shop that sells them.

Food

You may decide to pack a lunch but on many days after a big breakfast we got by with just some fruit and a few biscuits, sweets or muesli bars.  Don’t count on being able to get lunch along the way.  Even in farming country you will find very few places to stop and buy lunch.  Whatever you do, it’s always worth having a few extra snacks in your pack in case of emergency.

Money

Don’t forget to have lots of cash on you.  Not everywhere takes credit card and ATMs are scarce.  See above ("Preparation") for guidelines on how much to take.

4. Health and Fitness

To get the most out of your Coast to Coast experience you don’t want to be preoccupied with bodily aches and pains ( although no doubt you will have a few of those!)  Even more importantly, you need to keep your body in good working order to carry you to the other side of England.  Here are a few thoughts, but if you want expert advice talk to a sports doctor or physiotherapist well before you leave.  The walking guides also have good sections on health and fitness.

Get fit before you go

This is just plain commonsense. See under “Preparation” above.

Look after your feet and knees

These are the dudes who are going to get you across England so they will need a fair bit of TLC. The most common ailments are blisters and they can be very debilitating but tendons, muscles, bones and joints can all cause grief.  Some suggestions:

• Take proper footwear including appropriate socks. See above under “Equipment and Clothing”. Carry at least one pair of dry socks in your day pack.
• Check your feet regularly.  Certainly each evening/morning but also when you stop for lunch or a snack.  Take off your boots and socks and let them dry out a bit.  Check your skin for any signs of chafing or blistering.  Make sure toenails are kept well trimmed.
• If you have a partner or obliging companion a daily foot massage would be helpful. Massage of leg muscles is also recommended.
• Stretch and warm up/down before and after long walks.  Check with your physio for the most suitable exercises for your legs.
• Carry or wear elasticised knee support bandages or braces.  Ankle bandages may also be useful if you are prone to ankle problems. If you know first aid you can adapt roller bandages to this purpose but elasticised ones may give better support.
• Use walking sticks or “poles”.  See notes under “Equipment and Clothing” above.

 

Footcare at every opportunity!

Don’t carry unnecessary weight

Well this could mean around your midriff but I really mean in your daypack.  Reducing both will enhance your experience.  The effort in carrying an extra 3kg up and down hills over 25km is quite considerable and will add to your fatigue at the end of the day.  More importantly the extra weight will add to the pounding that your feet, ankles and knees will get with every step you take.

The weight of your daypack is a trade-off between being well prepared and convenience.  I tend to err on the cautious side so I shouldn't really be preaching about this. Choosing lightweight products will help.  One item that’s hard to skimp on is water.  2 litres = 2 kilograms!  If travelling in a group you should consider sharing the load according to strength and fitness.

Watch your step!

Throughout your walk you have to bear in mind that your health and fitness is important not only for your own enjoyment but also for those in your party.  If you sprain an ankle and can’t go on it probably means the journey is over for both you and your partner.  We met a lady who had just slipped and most likely broken her wrist, only three days in. She and her husband were going home.

So you have a responsibility to all in your party to look after yourself.  Here are some thoughts:

• Make sure your boots have a good tread, so you are less likely to slip on wet rocks, etc.
• Take care in descending especially over the rocky ground in the Lake District. Again, walking poles are excellent for reducing the risk and impact of steep descents.
• Don’t take risks unless it’s only you who will suffer the consequences.
• If you have pre-existing ailments or a predisposition to certain complaints discuss with your doctor or physio before you leave how best to manage them. You should probably discuss them with others in your party too so they know and can assist.

Keep hydrated

The importance of hydration for outdoor exercise and maintaining mental clarity is pretty well documented. Drink plenty of water in the evenings and before you set out.  If you find a Real Ale that takes your fancy and have a few too many, make sure you drink plenty of water overnight and next morning.  Take a couple of litres of water with you each day.

Don’t drink from the watercourses as there may be nasty bacteria or agricultural chemicals in them.

Antihistamines

If you are prone to hay fever take some antihistamines, especially in spring and early summer.

Analgesics / anti-inflammatories

We carried ibuprofen tablets and found it very useful.  Obviously you should check with your doctor and the packaging for safe usage instructions.

Sun protection

We were surprised to find ourselves slightly sunburnt early in the walk.  Make sure you carry SPF 30+ sunscreen, a good hat and consider wearing long sleeves.  Some sunscreens also contain insect repellent which could be beneficial but we didn’t really have any problems with insects.

First Aid Kit

What you include in your first aid kit depends on your trade-off between being cautious and the extra weight you might have to carry.  I would definitely include the following as a minimum:

• Analgesics / anti-inflammatories, such as ibuprofen
• Antihistamines
• Blister repair and prevention products like Compeed (get several packets!)
• Bandaids
• Antiseptic cream (for cuts and abrasions)
• A roller bandage (very versatile)
• Scissors and tweezers
• Imodium (anti-diarrhoea tablets)
• Space blanket