Ennerdale Bridge to Borrowdale (Stonethwaite) Day 2

"Well if you don't enjoy yourselves today there's something wrong with you" were the parting words of Steve at Brackenwray Farm.

He was referring to the forecast and the glorious sunny day already upon us as we shouldered packs and headed toward Ennerdale Water. Val, our other host at Brackenwray, had admitted to some bias when she said "we think this is the best section on the whole route". Biased she may be but she's not far from the truth! Steve and Val have been on Brackenwray for about 14 years and are attempting to re-establish it using animal friendly methods (if that's the right term ... some of the animals undoubtedly end up on the dinner table!) It was a delight to see the freest ranging hens and the geese, sheep, etc in this flourishing and peaceful environment. Val and Steve provided great service too, including a lift to and from the community-owned Fox and Hounds for dinner, about a mile away.

We met Heather at Ennerdale Bridge and started the long traverse of the south side of Ennerdale Water.

Soon after came the choice of the high route or the route up the valley. I chose the high route over Red Pike (755m), High Stile (806m) and High Crag (744m) as well as Alfred Wainwright's favourite (and his resting place), Haystacks. From the heights of this ridge there were fabulous views in all directions and conditions were so good that the Isle of Man was clearly visible half way across the Irish Sea.

Crummock Water seen from Red Pike

Meanwhile Irene, Genevieve, Heather and Geordie were enjoying their walk up the valley but had some difficulty finding the right path up Loft Beck, a common problem apparently. The comradeship of walkers, however, is a wonderful thing and other coast to coasters were there to consult.

Crummock Water (top) and Buttermere from Haystacks

They arrived at the Honister Slate Mines at about 5:45pm while I tramped in from Haystacks half an hour later. We were well past our expected arrival time and still had an hour and a half's walk into Stonethwaite. Our efforts to contact Dave we're unsuccessful as there was no mobile phone coverage. Even when we found a phone box (yes they still exist in this part of the world) we discovered there was no mobile reception at Dave's end either. So we arrived at 7:45, just 5 minutes after a worried Dave had driven up to Honister Pass ready to call out the Keswick Moutain Rescue and Dog Team. It all ended well with a convivial dinner and recounting of exploits and superlatives in the Langstrath Inn.

Stone Bridge, Borrowdale