Grasmere to Patterdale Day 4

We lingered well into the morning at Grasmere so we could take in Dove Cottage and the Wordsworth Museum, but even then we had to rush it. We bade farewell to Heather and David and headed north-east to Patterdale.

Dove Cottage, Grasmere

Accommodation in the Lake District is typically in the valleys which are only about 100m above sea level. So every day starts out with a climb, usually fairly strenuous. Today we had a steady, grassy plod up to Grisedale Tarn some 400m above Grasmere. Here the winds were stronger and the air noticeably cooler but the sun still shone down on us.

Genevieve at Grisedale Tarn

We had the choice of the gentle valley route, the scenic St Sunday Crag (841m) or the adventurous, arduous route over Dollywagon Pike to Helvellyn (950m) and down via the hair-raising Striding Edge to Patterdale. We opted for St Sunday Crag and weren't disappointed. Both sides of the ridge dropped away steeply affording great views, especially across to Helvellyn and down to Ullswater. That's what's distinctive about the Lake District ... there's so much packed into such a small area that whichever fell or pike you decide to climb you are guaranteed good views, as long as the weather is kind. And the weather has indeed been kind!

Heading up St Sunday Crag with Grisedale Tarn in the background

Here in the Lake District mobile phone coverage is erratic. The villages in the valleys often give no signal but as you climb the fells you may get a missed call or an SMS message when you least expect it. Reaching the peak of St Sunday Crag was made all the more enjoyable as I received a message from Helen saying the Bulldogs had given Melbourne a thrashing. Thanks Helen!

On top of St Sunday Crag, looking east

Beginning the descent from St Sunday Crag, Ullswater below

There was a steep descent from St Sunday Crag into Patterdale which is smaller, quieter and far less of a tourist trap than Grasmere. Although it has almost no shops or catalogued attractions I find Patterdale far more appealing.

Descent from St Sunday Crag overlooking Ullswater

We stayed at Old Water View B&B in a stone cottage, an excellent night's accommodation with a very helpful host and a complimentary half bottle of red wine to welcome us!.

At this stage in our trek we are typically arriving late in the afternoon, hitting the local inn for a pint and a pub meal then retiring early for a deep sleep. We certainly needed to be well rested for the long day from Patterdale to Shap.